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As a result the Dutch prohibited the import of all English cloth, with bitter results for the industry during the two years for which the experiment lasted. After there was a recovery, but by the outbreak of the Thirty Years War had brought about a crisis which caused prolonged stagnation and unemployment.

These may have been conservative figures, but the petition from Bromham in the latter year which speaks of 12, unemployed in that area alone is frankly incredible. More trustworthy is another statement from the same place in saying that 44 looms were idle and persons in danger of starvation. The white-cloth industry revived in the later twenties and thirties, but it was never again to be what it had been in the past.

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With the depression came official inquiries into its origin. These were the arguments of the clothiers and the Merchant Adventurers respectively, and each side had an axe to grind. The poor quality of cloth was a complaint with a long history. The Act of had established searchers who were to replace the medieval aulnagers in the duty of inspecting cloth at the fulling-mill.

They often displayed great activity which was much resented by the clothiers, who sometimes resisted or clandestinely removed their cloth before search; fn. In the practice of search in London was introduced, but even the London searchers relaxed their vigilance in time. A recrudescence of their activity in led to a struggle in which some of the largest Wiltshire clothiers took a leading part; and they won a complete victory in , when the claim to search in London was abandoned.

The number of Wiltshire clothiers fined for cloth lacking in length or weight in years when searchers were active shows how common it was to produce pieces which were not up to standard; for instance, there were 72 charges at the Epiphany Sessions in fn. Fraud there certainly was, but the technique and organization of the industry made it inevitable that much cloth should be imperfect, fn. It was Parliament, always sensitive to the country interest, which got in the first blow for the clothiers, with the allegation that it was the high price in continental markets which made cloth so difficult to sell.

It has recently been pointed out that a probable cause of the crisis was the depreciation of the currency in some of the states at war, leading to a higher import price for foreign commodities. It had cost the Merchant Adventurers a large sum to regain their privileges after the failure of Cockayne's experiment, and the company was trying to recoup itself by a heavy levy on the cloth exported by its members. This levy, which according to its enemies made cloth expensive abroad, was voted a grievance in and again in , but no remedy was obtained. By this time a new development was taking place in the Wiltshire industry with the introduction of 'mingled or medley cloth', for which the wool was first dyed and the colours mixed before spinning.

Medleys were not new, for they were exported to France in the 15th century, fn. It has been suggested that its use was due to a deterioration in the quality of English wool caused by the practise of inclosure. Apart from its use by Flemish refugees in , fn. In fn. The next 'Spanish cloth' manufacturers, at least on a large scale, were James and John Ash of Freshford, just over the Somerset border, who made a large fortune out of it in the thirties.

During the thirties the Ash family and some of their neighbours in Freshford carried on a lively campaign against the Brewers of Beckington and Lullington who were the pioneers of this imitation. Meanwhile, in , the Merchant Adventurers had persuaded the Privy Council to appoint two commissioners to consult with the justices about the proper execution of the clothing statutes. His appointment was intensely unpopular with the justices, who took it as a criticism of their own administration, and almost at once he fell foul of Sir Edward Baynton of Bromham.

His early activities, intended to ensure that the searchers did their duty, aroused the opposition of the clothiers as well; but in his second campaign he obtained a measure of support from them, since it involved the revival of the attempt to suppress the yarn broggers, who under the name of market-spinners, seem to have formed an important element in the economy of the Wiltshire industry at this date. But he failed to convince the justices who finally decided against him in July ; fn.

If reliance can be placed on the information which Wither's activities have provided, it appears that the manufacture of medleys had taken firm hold and was in a prosperous state, since manufacturers could afford to pay more for spinning coloured yarn. Some kept spinning establishments of their own fn. How much, if any, of the coloured yarn provided contained Spanish wool there is no means of judging, but there would be sound technical reasons for the new and more difficult spinning of fine dyed wool being left in the hands of specialists.

Whatever the method of its manufacture, Spanish cloth proved to be a popular commodity for foreign trade, partially superseding white cloth as well as coloured cloth made in other counties. The character of the industry was changing and its centre was shifting slightly westward; new types of cloth were being made and there was mounting resentment against regulation from the centre. Wither's activities seem to have had little permanent influence.

Complaints of the bad making of Spanish cloth were heard in the thirties fn. The growth of this manufacture, which was unaffected by all the statutes, and the prosperity of those engaged in it, in spite of occasional complaints about its bad quality, show how little the wellbeing of the industry was affected by regulation. After the outbreak of the Civil War, the trade was plunged into difficulties by the interruption of communications.

From to the county was one of the theatres of war, and both armies drew heavily on unemployed weavers; while the predicament of Edmund Stephens, a Salisbury clothier, who 'to avoid his creditors entered the army under the Earl of Essex', cannot have been an unusual one. Paul Methuen and other Bradford clothiers bore witness to the 'leniency and good neighbourhood' of Edward Yerbury when he was commissioner for the king there; fn. There were occasional complaints about the latter from the London dyers and clothworkers, fn.

In , 30, people in Wiltshire were said to be concerned in making white cloth; but there is likely to be more truth in the counter-allegation that this was a very exaggerated number for the production of the mere 6, pieces which now constituted the annual export. Finer white cloth was made at Salisbury and in the west of the county by the same clothiers who made medleys, but it was mainly dyed in London and little was exported undressed. From the Restoration onwards the bulk of the Wiltshire cloth was woven of dyed wool.

There were no further complaints about market-spinners fn. It is not surprising that the latter should have been superseded by medleys, since the uneven colour sometimes produced by dyeing in hard water was easier to deal with in wool than in cloth. The use of Spanish wool was increasing, but England was inferior to France and Holland in knowledge of how best to use it. It was either carded with English wool or formed the weft to an English warp, fn.

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In the late 17th century there seems to have been no difference in quality between the two, fn. Sheep from these flocks were introduced into Wiltshire in fn. It was probably to teach the spinning of warps from Spanish wool that the great Bradford clothier, Paul Methuen, introduced the 'spinner' Derricke Jonsen, from Amsterdam, in It may have been Methuen who was responsible for the introduction of the Spanish cloth manufacture into Bradford; he was settled in Bradford before , but there is no evidence that medleys were made there before the Civil War. After his death in his place as what Aubrey called 'the greatest clothier of his time' was taken by William Brewer of Trowbridge, 'who drove the greatest trade for medleys of any clothier in England'.

Their arrival was not popular, and in the Privy Council ordered the neighbouring justices to desist from supporting an attempt to remove them. In later years the beginning of the fine-cloth industry was dated from the arrival of these Dutchmen, but it would be more correct to regard them as having contributed the finishing touches to a branch of the industry which had already been considerably improved.

The expansion of Bradford had begun by , and it continued throughout the decade. Parish records for the years between and show 97 immigrants, including 49 clothworkers and 10 weavers, besides an assortment of wool-breakers, scribblers, fullers, and cardmakers. To judge by the arrivals of clothworkers in both towns one would say that the chief contribution of the Dutch was in finishing, but they also assisted the improvement of spinning, which was a notable feature towards the end of the century.

About Aubrey was told by Samuel Ash that 'the art of spinning is so much improved within these last 40 years that one pound of wool makes twice as much cloth as to the extent as it did before the Civil War'. By the late 17th century the wool was prepared in the clothier's workshop by being mixed or scribbled on a frame called a horse before being given out to the spinner, who had to card it on hand-cards before it was spun; and fine cards played an indispensable part in fine spinning.

After a period of depression soon after the Restoration, fn. Its degree may be judged from the fact that, among the many complaints from the woollen industry which reached Parliament during the recurrent depressions of the later 17th century, few came from Wiltshire and none at all from Trowbridge or Bradford.

This apparent contentment was probably due to the fact that Wiltshire's chief market was now at home and not abroad. Exports were not unimportant and Salisbury, whose 'whites' were dyed in London by the Levant Company for the eastern Mediterranean, depended largely upon them; fn. In medley cloth was given an advertisement by Charles II who wore it during a depression to encourage the trade. During the whole of the 17th century the medley manufacture remained free from regulation, in spite of a few abortive attempts to bring it under legal control. The controversy went on until , fn. Only one return has so far come to light.

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Several had cloths at more than one mill. This was the time of year when the number of cloths at the mills would be at its lowest owing to lack of water; but the list gives some support to the statement, made by John Britton about , that up to the middle of the 18th century the Chippenham clothiers were men of limited capital. Wiltshire made other materials as well as cloth, but its excursions into the field of the new draperies were confined to goods made with a woollen weft and finished in the same way as cloth, although the warp might be of worsted.

Even before the Civil War there had been woolcombers and serge-weavers in the county and in the later 17th century they were scattered all over it; fn. Some patterns produced by a Warminster clothier in fn. Some of this was made by independent weavers who probably sold it direct to the consumers and were potential buyers of stolen yarn. Such depressions gave the city at times the reputation of being 'much decayed', fn.

It is said, perhaps with some exaggeration, to have employed at that time a quarter of the city's population. By Salisbury had abandoned any attempt to keep out strangers, fn. The introduction in of what came to be known as Wilton carpets fn. Although the manufacture was still widely spread, it seems unlikely that the county's production in the early 18th century was as great as it had been a hundred years earlier.

The opinion of Robert Scott of Heddington, who told Aubrey about that there was less clothing than there had been, fn. In Defoe was writing of 'that great vale of trade extending from Warminster to Cirencester', fn. Some of this contraction may have been the result of a setback in the second quarter of the century, for writers of to agree that the industry was not so prosperous as it had been.

In the thirties Henry Wansey of Warminster suffered from 'some peculiar disabilities his branch of the trade lay under', fn. In Postlethwayt declared that the sale of Spanish cloth had decreased by two-fifths owing to a change in fashion. In the later 17th century English medleys had had a reputation abroad and they continued popular well into the 18th century, in spite of the imposition of tariffs fn. From the early 's, when it was said that the English were surpassing the Dutch in Spanish cloth, fn.

From the later twenties French and Dutch competition was increasingly felt, fn. Black cloth was unsaleable in Lisbon in the midth century if it cost over 5 s. The only Wiltshire clothiers who have left any records for the thirties and forties increased their trade on the whole during these years. The Clarks of Trowbridge fn. George Wansey found difficulties in the early forties, but after he went steadily ahead.